Roof of England: High Roaming, Rich Heritage and Starry Skies in the North Pennines
The Pennine Way reaches its highest point in the North Pennines AONB, not too far south of the market town of Alston. This is striking countryside: lofty, rugged and remote. A landscape of exposed heather moors, mighty fells, steep-cut valleys, lush meadows and cascading streams. But it’s also a landscape of human touches, where prehistoric peoples built mysterious circles of stone, Romans erected fortresses, centuries of miners burrowed into the mineral-rich earth and generations of farmers laced the slopes with drystone walls.
Alston is a Walkers are Welcome Town, so a great place to start exploring on foot. Hikes in the area, along the Pennine Way and beyond, will afford big-sky views that stretch all the way to Scotland. But they’ll also reveal fascinating details, from shaft mounds and peel towers to wildflowers and red squirrels. Then there are the historic mines you can descend into, the stately mansions you can tour, the dark skies you can observe and the local food and ales you can enjoy. High times indeed.
Tour Overview
The icons below highlight the distance, difficulty and theme of this itinerary.
Days
5
Distance
Walks from 5km to 15km
Difficulty
Easy / Moderate
Landscape
High Hills & Moorland / Rolling Countryside / Connecting Villages & Towns
Theme
History / Food & Drink / Wildlife
Activities & Experiences
Walking / Heritage / Hands On
Roof of England: High Roaming, Rich Heritage and Dark Skies in the North Pennines
Here’s everything you need to help you plan your very own walking and exploring break in Alston and the North Pennines. Click on the blue arrow tabs below for more information. To save this itinerary to view later, use the Save to My Rucksack button at the top of the page.
- Itinerary
- Accommodation
- Food & Drink
- Activities
- Experiences
- Cycling
- Travel
- Advice
- Interactive Map
- Maps, Guidebooks & Merchandise
Itinerary
Head to the handsome Pennines market town of Alston for a five-day journey around the North Pennines Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty – an area that encompasses wild moors, mining heritage, abundant wildlife, wetlands and waterfalls, and some of the best starry skies.
Day 1 Alston: Highs & Lows
Alston claims to be England’s highest market town. Disputed? Perhaps. But what isn’t is that this North Pennines hub, right on the Pennine Way, is a great base for exploring the country’s most dramatic uplands.
Start by taking a walk around. Follow the cobbled main street to the old market cross, pop into St Augustine’s Church, browse the ceramics gallery, learn about local history at The Hub Museum and pop into a pub for a real ale by a real fire.
This afternoon, gain a better understanding of Alston’s centuries-old mining heritage by visiting a local mine. Nearby Nenthead was one of the largest Victorian mining and smelting sites in England – now, don a hard hat and take a guided walk underground. At Killhope Mines, as well as wading through the 19th-century tunnels, try sifting the silt, to see what minerals you can find.
Overnight in Alston. There are many options – see Accommodation, left.
Day 2 Alston: Along the Pennine Way
It’s time to stride out on the Pennine Way. A relatively gentle figure-of-eight walk from Alston, part using the National Trail, combines green valley sides, drystone walls, Roman remains, heritage railway tracks, the banks of the River South Tyne, lovely views and, with luck, red squirrels. Take a picnic – stock up on goodies such as local cheese and Mr Vikki’s chutneys at Alston Wholefoods before you leave.
For some post-walk retail therapy, drive 25 minutes north to Allendale, where the Forge Studios are brilliant for browsing: see artists at work, peruse the shop, check out the gallery and stop for homemade cake in the cafe.
Alternatively, drive 25 minutes east to the quiet village of Allenheads. Visit the Old Blacksmith’s Shop and heritage exhibition and rest in the walker-friendly pub. Then take a short amble around the former Allenheads Mine site to explore the remnants of its workings and its 300 million years of geology. There are good views over the East Allen Valley, too.
If you can, stay until evening: just up the hill is the North Pennines Observatory, where experts can help you navigate the area’s internationally-lauded dark skies.
Overnight in Alston. There are many options – see Accommodation, left.
Day 3 Alston: Rails & Rambles
Today, take a ride on the South Tynedale Railway. The highest narrow-gauge railway in England, it rolls from Alston to the village of Slaggyford and back, via classic Pennines countryside – the return trip takes around 90 minutes. The Victorian station in Alston now houses a discovery centre and welcoming cafe.
Grab a light lunch before heading south to the valley-tucked village of Garrigill – it’s a ten-minute drive or a 6km hike along the Pennine Way.
From Garrigill, take a wet and wonderful walk to Ashgill Force; follow a series of river cascades through the green vale to Ashgill itself, which tumbles in a natural amphitheatre. It’s especially spectacular after a glut of rain.
Overnight in Alston. There are many options – see Accommodation, left.
Day 4 Alston: On The Wild Side
With its mix of heather moors, peatlands, woodlands, dales and meadows, the North Pennines are home to a wealth of wildlife – especially if you know where to look. So, today, let Northern Experience Wildlife Tours take you on safari.
Spend a whole day with a guide, searching for animals and wildflowers; watching wading birds displaying on the moors in springtime is up there with the country’s best wildlife spectacles.
You can also extend your day-trip into twilight, to explore Northumberland’s Gold-rated International Dark Sky Park with proper kit and an expert astronomer. On a clear night, you’ll see a dizzying array of stars.
If you’d rather walk than safari today, consider driving west to Little Salkeld instead. A short circular stroll from this small village packs in huge variety. Start at the working 18th-century watermill (buy its flour at the on-site shop) and walk out into the Eden Valley via a hermit’s cave, a lost village, a 13th-century church and Long Meg and Her Daughters – one of the biggest stone circles in England, dating from around 1500 BC.
Drive back to Alston via Melmerby, to stop for sustenance and gift-shopping at the Old Village Bakery.
Overnight in Alston. There are many options – see Accommodation, left.
Day 5 Alston: Romans Or Riches
Only a five-minute drive north of Alston is Epiacum Roman fort, the highest stone-built Roman fort in Britain, scattered across a working farm. You will have passed it on your Day 2 walk along the Pennine Way but it’s worth returning to its trails to learn more about the prehistoric peoples, legionnaires, Border reivers, sheep and skylarks whose stories are woven into the site.
Then head north to Geltsdale (30 minutes), an undulating and utterly remote RSPB Nature Reserve. The bog, heath, grassland and meadows here support huge numbers of breeding birds, from black grouse and golden plovers to ring ouzel and hen harriers. Follow the nature trails to tick off species and to take in sweeping views across north Cumbria, the Cheviots and the Scottish hills.
Or you could end your trip with something completely different. Head west towards Penrith instead, to spend a day admiring a cluster of magnificent mansions.
Palladian-style, pink-stone Dalemain (40 minutes from Alston) is one of the most beautiful stately homes in the North West. Tour the historic house, roam the gardens and eat lunch in the Medieval Hall Tearoom.
On the edge of the Lake District, Hutton-in-the-Forest (45 minutes from Alston) spans the ages, with parts dating from medieval times to the Victorian era – the handsome home is still inhabited. Admire the interiors before walking through the walled garden to the woodland beyond.
Lowther Castle is an intriguing alternative. Only the facade remains of his huge 19th-century pile. The surrounding estate is riddled with walking and cycling routes (bikes can be hired on site); it’s also being rewilded, with beavers introduced in 2020. The classy cafe is perfect for an end-of-trip lunch.
Overnight in Alston or the surrounding area. There are many options – see Accommodation, left.
Accommodation
The North Pennines region has a variety of options, from hotels and hostels to family-run B&Bs.
Alston
- Alston Youth Hostel – Right on the Pennine Way, with great facilities for walkers.
- Alston Arts Apartments – Four stylish architect-designed self-catering cottages.
- Alston House Hotel – Restaurant with rooms, real ales, log fires and a warm Cumbrian welcome.
- The Cumberland Inn – Traditional inn in the heart of the North Pennines.
- Lowbyer Manor Country House – B&B with en-suite rooms, lounge, dining room, bar and gardens.
- Nent Hall Country House Hotel, near Alston – Peaceful retreat, popular with walkers and cyclists.
Beyond
- Allenheads Inn, Allenheads – An 18th-century inn, with cosy rooms and hearty meals; popular with cyclists and walkers.
- Askham Hall, near Penrith – Individually designed rooms, including some in the old Pele Tower; guests have access to outdoor heated pool.
- The Rowley Estates, near Penrith – Luxury cottages and glamping within the Lake District and the Eden Valley.
Food & Drink
Many of the pubs and hotels listed under the Accommodation section also offer food, from classics to fine dining. Additionally, seek out some of the region’s characterful cafes.
- Alston Wholefoods – Grocers and delicatessen, established in 1998 as a Workers’ Cooperative; local cheeses and produce for sale.
- Crossing Cafe, Alston – Refreshments severed at South Tynedale Railway’s Alston station.
- Café at The Hive, Nenthead – Cafe and visitor centre near the Nenthead Mine.
- The Old Village Bakery, Melmerby – Delicious food including breakfast, lunch and cakes; fashion, gifts and interiors shops too.
- Epiacum Roman Fort – Farm shop and café set in the historic landscape.
Activities
There are plenty of walking and adventure possibilities in the North Pennines, suitable for all abilities.
Walks
- Pennine Way, Alston loop, 15km – Figure-of-eight river valley walk passing the remains of a Roman fort.
- Allenheads Geotrail, 5km – Circular route at the Allenheads mine site.
- Garrigill to Ashgill Force, 5km – Gentle trail following a series of waterfalls.
- Little Salkeld to Long Meg, 7km – Fascinating circuit, via historic watermill, stone circle, hermit’s cave and old church.
- RSPB Geltsdale trails, 2km-8km – A variety of trails lead around this upland and wetland bird breeding site.
Other
- North Pennines Dark Sky Discovery Sites – Various sites offering world-class star-gazing.
For further walking inspiration visit The Outdoor Guide.
Experiences
There’s plenty to see and do around the North Pennines, both day and night – this area has some of the best dark skies in the country.
- The Hub Museum, Alston – Vibrant local history and transport museum packed with bygone forms of transport.
- South Tynedale Railway, Alston – England’s highest narrow-gauge railway, following the former route of British Rail’s Haltwhistle to Alston branch line.
- Killhope – Former Victorian lead mine; tours lead into tunnels.
- Nenthead Mines – Once one of the largest Victorian mining and smelting sites in England; open on specified dates only.
- Northern Experience Wildlife Tours – Wildlife safaris in the North Pennines and beyond with experienced guides; extensions into Northumberland Dark Sky Park available.
- North Pennines Dark Sky Discovery Sites – Various sites offering world-class star-gazing.
- North Pennines Observatory, Allenheads – Community observatory offering workshops and talks from professional astronomers.
- Allendale Forge Studios – Local artists’ workshops, boutiques, gallery and cafe.
- Epiacum Roman Fort – Roman fort and historic landscape.
- Geltsdale RSPB Nature Reserve, Brampton – Blanket bog, heath, grassland, meadows and woodland attracting upland and wetland birds and birds of prey.
- Dalemain Mansion, near Penrith – One of the most beautiful and impressive stately homes in the North West; delicious homemade food in the tearoom.
- Hutton-in-the-Forest – Historic Cumbrian house on the edge of the Lake District with walled garden and woodland.
- Lowther Castle & Gardens, near Penrith – Striking castle facade; great walking and cycling routes around the estate.
- Rheged Centre, near Penrith – Shops, cinema, gallery and food options.
- North East Guides – delivers outdoor activity packages around Northumberland and the North East.
Cycling
The North Pennines is challenging but spectacular cycling country – travelling by bike is a great way to explore this wild countryside. The C2C cycle route passes through the area too.
There are many route possibilities from Alston, including a series of circulars. The region’s 18th-century packhorse trails are a playground for off-road riders.
Bike hire is available from Arragon’s Cycle Hire at Penrith and Lowther Castle.
Travel
Alston is not easily accessed by public transport. A car is required.
We advise that you check opening times and booking restrictions before travelling.
Advice
Walks are largely easy to moderate. The main Pennine Way walk is 15km; it’s relatively gentle, considering the local landscape, as it follows the river valley and railway line. There are some muddy sections. For more information on the area, see www.visitalston.com.
Please check out these links for latest advice when in the countryside
Interactive Map
Click here to access the interactive map
Maps, Guidebooks & Merchandise
The official guidebook and map for the Trail are available from the National Trails Shop along with a wide range of gifts and other merchandise.